First Thoughts: Studio Underd0g Mantis
Just when you think Richard Benc and Studio Underd0g might be getting a little more serious, they go and release a watch called the Mantis.
The new 02SERIES Mantis is the first special edition based on the second generation of Studio Underd0g’s field watch, and while the military-inspired green colour scheme might initially look relatively restrained by the brand’s usual standards, wait until someone turns the lights off.
Because this thing glows. A lot.
I’ve followed Studio Underd0g from the beginning, and was even at their first Redbar event in Kent, and one of the things I’ve always enjoyed about the brand is that Richard rarely seems interested in simply changing a dial colour and calling it a day. There is normally an idea behind the watch, accompanied by the usual slightly ridiculous Studio Underd0g storytelling.
The Mantis continues that tradition rather nicely.
At its heart is the familiar second-generation 02SERIES case, measuring a very wearable 37.5mm across, 11.5mm thick and 46mm lug-to-lug. Those proportions already make the 02SERIES an appealing modern interpretation of the traditional field watch, particularly if, like me, you appreciate watches that don't need to dominate the wrist. Water resistance is also a useful 100 metres.
But the dial is obviously where things become considerably more interesting.
Studio Underd0g has used a 1mm sapphire disc for the upper dial carrying the numerals, minute track and branding. Sitting underneath is a brass base dial treated with seven layers of custom X1 Super-LumiNova. During daylight the result is a rather cool green field watch, but in darkness the entire dial illuminates, leaving the numerals silhouetted against that glowing background.
And I really like it.
Full-lume dials aren't exactly new, but combining one with the layered sapphire construction of the 02SERIES gives the Mantis considerably more depth than simply painting a dial with lume. There is something almost three-dimensional about the arrangement, and it feels suitably Studio Underd0g without becoming another exercise in throwing increasingly wild colours at a watch.
Turn the lights out, though, and all bets are off.
There's also a nice little connection with the jellyfish depicted on the caseback, whose natural bioluminescence originally helped inspire the 02SERIES dial concept. It's the sort of slightly nerdy detail that probably isn't necessary, but makes the whole idea feel more considered.
Inside is another important part of the Gen2 upgrade. The Mantis uses the manually wound Sellita SW200-2 M Power+, running at 4Hz and offering 63 hours of power reserve, considerably more useful than the 42 hours of the previous generation. Studio Underd0g quotes accuracy at -7/+7 seconds per day.
I'm also pleased they've stuck with manual winding. There is something about physically winding a simple field watch that feels right, and with 63 hours available you can wind it on Friday and theoretically make it through the weekend without touching the crown again.
Another detail worth mentioning is that the watches are assembled in Great Britain, with each watch assembled from start to finish by one member of the Studio Underd0g team, whose initials accompany the finished watch. It's a small detail, but one that gives the watch a little more personality.
Then we get to the price.
The Mantis comes in at £875, which inevitably puts it into increasingly competitive territory. But when you consider the sapphire dial construction, seven layers of Super-LumiNova, Swiss manual-wind movement, British assembly and the overall execution of the Gen2 02SERIES, I don't think the price feels unreasonable.
Perhaps the more controversial part will be how you actually buy one.
Rather than producing a numbered limited edition, Studio Underd0g is opening orders for just nine hours on September 1st, from 3pm until midnight BST.
Everyone who orders during that window gets one, and when the window closes the Mantis is permanently discontinued. There will also be a small allocation available through The D0ghouse.
Personally, I much prefer this approach to the dreaded "sold out in 30 seconds" microbrand drop. If you genuinely want one, you've got nine hours to make your mind up rather than having to exercise your fastest checkout finger.
Watch Brothers Verdict
My first impression is that the Mantis could be one of the best executions of the 02SERIES so far.
Studio Underd0g built its reputation on watches that are colourful, playful and occasionally a little bonkers. The clever thing about the Mantis is that it manages to retain that personality while looking surprisingly grown-up during daylight.
It's almost two watches. By day, you've got a very wearable green 37.5mm field watch. By night, it becomes something completely different, with that huge luminous dial providing exactly the sort of visual theatre you'd expect from Studio Underd0g.
And perhaps that's why it works.
The Mantis doesn't feel like Studio Underd0g trying desperately to produce another quirky watch. Instead, it takes what was already good about the second-generation 02SERIES and gives it one genuinely distinctive feature.
Would I wear it?
Absolutely. I just wish it was a little bigger, but hey, thats just me. It does have a Gimlet vibe, which I guess cant be ignored, although I have no doubt that they will sell thousands of them. So get in quick and Prey you get your Mantis.
£875 | 37.5mm | Manual Sellita SW200-2 M Power+ | 63-hour power reserve | 100m water resistance
Available for nine hours only, September 1st, 3pm to midnight BST.
Check out the release video too and see James McVey as Bond.