Christopher Ward Twelve X
My Introduction to the Twelve X
The new Twleve X is a premium offering from Christopher Ward, similar to the C60 Concept released in 2021. Not only has their in-house Calibre SH21 been re-finished, but it has also been given a full skeletonised makeover. The case is now fully machine-finished, as opposed to their normal hand-finishing. This has enabled Christopher Ward to be more cost-effective and think of the end price.
The Twelve X is built of Grade 2 Titanium, with some elements of Grade 5 that are used in the bezel and case back, as Grade 5 is much more resistant to scratching. The overall case size has increased slightly from 40mm of the Twelve to 41mm. It is also 2mm thicker, and this may be an issue for some who prefer something less bulky. The case is multifaceted and blends well with the bracelet, however, for me, it is a little too busy.
The Ideal Bracelet?
The Twelve X also has the new micro-adjustable clasp on the bracelet. This will allow an extra 3mm of extra give if needed, by pulling the bracelet when the clasp is closed. They are also planning to roll out this new feature on all future bracelets.
Today, Christopher Ward launches The Twelve X. This is its latest model powered by the company’s in-house movement – Calibre SH21. The Twelve X represents the newest iteration of CW’s successful integrated bracelet series, which the company launched in 2023. It joins a lineup of high-end pieces such as the C60 Apex, C60 Concept, and C1 Bel Canto.
The Twelve X marks several firsts for the Twelve series. It is the inaugural Twelve model to run on SH21. It introduces both Grade 5 and Grade 2 titanium into its case construction. Alongside CW’s innovative new micro-adjustable bracelet system. Furthermore, The Twelve X pioneers full skeletonization within the Twelve series. This unveils the intricate mechanics of the movement from the watch’s front by shedding the traditional dial.
The SH21 showcases a twin-barrel design, providing a generous 120-hour power reserve. In this newly skeletonised configuration, wearers can observe these barrels winding and unwinding from the front of the watch. Every exposed component requires meticulous finishing to unprecedented standards.
Some are intentionally crafted slightly taller, allowing them to be refined using custom diamond cutters. “This naturally requires top-tier CNC machines, as even the slightest vibration can mar the surface. When executed correctly, the results nearly rival the precision of hand polishing.
Is This The Industrial Evolution?
The Twelve X represents an open series watch, crafted for mass production. Reflecting Christopher Wards’s belief in the suitability of machine finishing for luxury timepieces. With modern machines capable of achieving results comparable to manual craftsmanship. If not surpassing it, they become instrumental in realising one of CW’s primary goals: democratising high-end watchmaking.
Crafted from two varieties of titanium—Grade 2, typical of the regular Twelve (Ti). As well as the premium Grade 5 found in the Bel Canto. The Twelve X boasts a polished, brushed, and sandblasted case. While Grade 2 titanium forms the majority of the case, the denser Grade 5 is reserved for the bezel and case back.
This offers enhanced scratch resistance and a higher standard of quality. Additionally, the Twelve X incorporates box crystals on both the front and rear. This reduces the perceived case height by over two millimetres.
Debuting a redesigned clasp, the integrated bracelet introduces a quick-adjustment mechanism. This has been previously unseen on integrated bracelets until recent times.
Designer, Will Brackfield pointed out a major drawback of the classic butterfly clasp: its lack of quick adjustment. “We needed to address that issue. Now, you can effortlessly adjust the length in seconds—just by 3mm, but it’s a game-changer,” he stated. Co-founder and CEO Mike France noted, “2024 holds two significant anniversaries for Christopher Ward: our business’ 20th birthday and the 10th year of Calibre SH21 production.”
A Game Changer?
“We’ve created the Twelve X to commemorate these milestones, and it’s quite special as it embodies CW’s core value: that a timepiece should never be priced at more than three times its manufacturing cost,” stated the spokesperson. “In the £1,000 price range, we offer the design, finishing, materials, and overall quality of a watch typically priced at two or three times higher. However, in the £3,000-4,000 range, the difference becomes even more apparent.”
“Ultimately, the Twelve X isn’t just about the anniversaries, making SH21 accessible to more people, or emphasizing the Christopher Ward value proposition; it’s also about promoting the pleasures of high-end finishing, regardless of how it’s achieved,” they concluded.
My Thoughts
As a mainly vintage Dive watch collector, this watch just isn’t by bag. However, I can appreciate what Christopher Ward has done here. Skeletonised watches are on trend at them moment, with plenty to take your pick from. Although this won’t be one I will own, I think there will be plenty that will pull the plug. Christopher Ward has a huge fan base and most will look at the Twelve X and see it as a big win. I have no doubt it will be a success for them and this bold direction from them is certainly welcomed.
Is Price An Issue?
The price, for some, maybe a sticking point though. At £4,120.00 with the bracelet and £3,750.00 that is a big ask and although Christopher Ward has that 3 x cost structure, these are the most expensive to date from them. The Twelve X also proves what Christopher Ward can do, they are pushing their boundaries and creating a higher horological endpoint. If brands want to survive in this day and age they need to evolve, so is the Twelve X Christopher Ward’s next stage of evolution?
- Dimensions – 41mm x 46.3.. x 12.3mm
- Lug Width – 25mm
- Case – Grade 5 & 2 Titanium
- Water Resistance – 100m/10ATM
- Power Reserve – 120 Hours
- Movement – In-House Skeletonised SH21 Automatic
- Movement Certification – Chronometer COSC
- Crystal – Box sapphire Top & Bottom with AR Coating
- Lume – SuperLumiNova Grade X1 BL C1
- Price – £4,120.00 Bracelet – £3,750.00 Rubber
For More Information On The Twelve X Click HERE
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