Less French & More Swiss?
It has been well documented that we at Watch Brothers are huge fans of the Yema Superman. Both Mark and I have owned several, all vintage, dating back to their early days of the late 1960s. The Yema Superman Swiss pays tribute to the legendary 1970s reference 53.00.16 and stays true to its vintage roots. This modern revival showcases signature details, including a robust straight-lug stainless steel case engineered for deep-sea durability, boasting an impressive 990-foot water resistance.
One of its most distinctive elements is the innovative bezel-lock system. A defining characteristic of the original model that guarantees precise and secure timing adjustments—essential for serious divers. As a devoted fan of Skin Diver watches, many of my earliest pieces belonged to this category, often featuring sleek, understated bezels like the one found here. So, when this landed on my desk for review, I couldn’t resist the opportunity to dive in.
Yema plans to focus on its French manufacturing calibres (CMM.10 / CMM.20 / CMM.30). They will gradually replace the YEMA2000/3000 models with new ones equipped with generic Swiss calibres. This will allow our watchmaker’s team to focus entirely on the production of our French Manufacture calibres, we have partnered with a Swiss watchmaker. This new strategic partner will oversee the manufacturing and assembly of YEMA models equipped with Swiss calibres. This new range will feature a Swiss Made label while maintaining an accessible price point.
A Welcome Re-issue And Upgrade
This watch effortlessly captures the essence of its vintage predecessor while incorporating modern refinements that keep it feeling fresh and relevant. The model we had in for review, the creamy ivory-dialed YSUP25A39-EMS, exemplifies this balance beautifully.
Available in both 41mm and 39mm case sizes at the same price of £899.99, it offers remarkable value for money. Crafted from polished 316L stainless steel, the case sits comfortably on the wrist, providing a reassuring weight without feeling overbearing. Measuring 13.5mm in thickness, including the double-domed sapphire crystal, the watch maintains a sleek profile. Without the crystal, the case slims down to 11.3mm, and the tapered lugs further enhance the streamlined aesthetic, ensuring a well-proportioned and balanced presence on the wrist.
The latest iteration of the Superman Swiss stays true to its heritage while embracing a refined tool-watch aesthetic. It comes in a quartet of colourways—black, blue, white, and classic beige—all featuring a subdued matte finish that enhances legibility and reinforces its utilitarian design.
Luminous hour markers ensure visibility in low-light conditions, while the signature broad arrow minute hand and distinct inverted triangle at 12 o’clock create an instantly familiar silhouette. A nostalgic touch comes in the form of the iconic paddle-style seconds hand, complete with a revived “traffic light” indicator featuring a bold red accent. One subtle but notable update is the text at 6 o’clock, where “Swiss Made” now replaces the previous “Manufacture Française,” marking a shift in production while maintaining the essence of the original.
The five-piece bracelet retains its vintage charm, offering excellent articulation around the wrist for a comfortable fit. With a three-part clasp and a diver’s extension, Yema has ensured that functionality isn’t compromised in this Swiss variant. The crown is well-sized, making time and date adjustments effortless, but the standout feature for me is the 120-click bezel.
Stays True To Its Heritage
Its ultra-slim profile is a nod to classic dive watches of the past, a style that has seen a resurgence in popularity. The bezel lock, a signature of Yema, remains intact—while somewhat rudimentary in execution, it performs its job effectively.
Yema has also refined the case back, which now features an embossed version of the brand’s historic coat of arms. This design is achieved using a hydraulic press, followed by a meticulous micro-blasting process to create a more sophisticated finish. Powering the Yema Superman Swiss is the Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement, delivering a 38-hour power reserve.
While this represents a step down from Yema’s proprietary CMM movements, the switch to a Swiss calibre helps keep costs lower, making this model a more accessible entry point into the brand’s lineup.
My Thoughts
So, what do I think about the Yema Superman Swiss? Honestly, pricing a 300m Swiss-made dive watch under the £1,000 mark is a strategic move that Yema will likely look back on as a turning point. For the brand’s long-term growth and sustainability, this shift towards a more cost-effective model makes complete sense. By optimising production costs without compromising heritage, Yema is positioning itself for greater market visibility and, ultimately, stronger profitability.
The brand’s early models are now considered true icons, sought after by collectors, and this Swiss-made edition stays true to that legacy. The new cream-coloured dial is a standout, offering a warm contrast against the black bezel, further enhancing the vintage aesthetic. It’s a smart, well-executed release—hats off to Yema for making such a savvy move!
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