AP or Not AP? That is the question.
There’s something intriguing about the sheer number of watch brands out there, many of which I’ve barely scratched the surface of. So, with a day off last week, I thought I’d take a trip to AP House on New Bond Street to see what all the fuss was about.
I suppose most of us gravitate towards brands that fit within our personal budget. For those outside that realm, some brands feel either wildly out of reach or almost mythical, like they were made of unobtanium.
Audemars Piguet, part of the Holy Trinity alongside Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin, is a favorite among those with serious financial means—or those whose pockets are much deeper than mine. The trio has long been regarded as the pinnacle of watchmaking, representing the ultimate in craftsmanship, design, and innovation. Patek Philippe is often seen as the more traditional, heritage-driven of the three, focusing on intricate, timeless complications. Vacheron Constantin stands for refined elegance and classical design. Audemars Piguet, however, is known for pushing boundaries with bold designs, like the Royal Oak, which reshaped the luxury watch market in 1972 by introducing the luxury steel sports watch. The brand’s commitment to daring innovation and redefining what a luxury watch could be has cemented its place as one of the most revered names in horology.
While these watches aren’t exactly affordable for the masses, I can still appreciate their importance in the watch world, even if they’re not in my price bracket. Their influence is undeniable—shaping the direction of watch design and influencing generations of collectors and enthusiasts.
After visiting AP House in London, I left feeling slightly underwhelmed, not by the watches themselves or the hospitality, but by the realisation that I just couldn’t connect with AP as a brand. They produce incredible timepieces, and at their entry-level models, some are attainable.
I tried on a few from their Code 11.59, Royal Oak, and Offshore collections, but for some reason, none of them resonated with me. A few Royal Oaks were close to my style, but nothing really felt right on my wrist. What I really wanted to try on was the Re]Master 02, but sadly, I’ve missed the boat on that one. The bold, architectural reissue of a watch from their 1940s catalogue has long sold out, being a limited run of just 500 pieces. It’s a shame because that piece really spoke to my taste. Maybe a pre-owned one is worth tracking down—who knows, it could be a hidden gem somewhere out there. But as these are currently trading on the pre-owned for between £55k - £85k, I will have to appreciate them from afar.
Maybe I was expecting something different, but I didn’t get that magic feeling—the one where your heart races and the hairs on the back of your neck stand up. The quality of these watches is undeniably higher than most in my price range, but I can’t shake the feeling that I’ll never own one. Was I intimidated by the visit? Not really. Perhaps it’s a bit of impostor syndrome or just my inability to connect with the brand. Or maybe, it’s simply not meant to be.
I do admire what they’re doing, and some of their pieces are stunning. I’ll keep an open mind, though, and maybe one day I’ll find that connection. Until then, I’ll appreciate their work from afar. If you’re building a collection, don’t let these big brands intimidate you. They’re just people selling watches. Yes, the atmosphere might be fancier than what you’re used to, but take the time to try some on. You might be surprised—after all, you never know which brand might inspire you to add a piece to your collection one day.