Buying A Vintage Watch

I’m a keen collector of vintage watches, almost all divers. I thought it prudent to write a guide, to help navigate the pitfalls to buying a vintage watch.  When I started my collection, I wasted both my time and money buying the wrong watches, and not having a clue what I was doing. So the idea came to me to write this, and to help others walk this difficult path. This is the first of our Watch Brother Guides and we hope to bring you more, as time progresses. So welcome to our guide to Buying A Vintage Watch.
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The Hunger For Heritage

Vintage is all the rage, some collectors keep well away from this fragile beast. Once you understand how to circumnavigate your way around, your first taste of a vintage watch could open up a whole new world. Without some form of a guide, you could easily get caught up in the hazards you may face.

Where do most brands go for their inspirations, straight back to their back catalogue, to see what was a hit in the heydays. This is one of the reasons we’ve seen a resurgence in reissues, but owning the original for some is a greater prize. So where should you start?

I honestly can’t emphasise how important it is to find a watch and style you like that resonates with you. This could be your first watch, or perhaps you want to add another to a vintage watch that was passed down to you. There will be a style for everyone, whether it’s case shape, case material, dial colour or simply just a brand you like. This would be my suggestion as a starting point.

Once you have found a watch you like, (don’t buy it yet) do some research. This is an important piece of choice advice, understand as much as you can about that watch. Look at every part of it, the dial, crown, and case, even the movement and find out as much as possible. It will be invaluable when it comes to pulling the trigger. Find a watch community, perhaps Facebook or an online forum that’s associated with the brand or model you have fallen for.

It doesn’t matter whether you choose analogue or digital, as the process of buying a vintage watch will be identical. Look for something you like, please don’t fall down the rabbit hole and buy it as an investment. This is the wrong reason for buying a vintage watch and one you should swerve.

Many people buying a vintage watch, think they eventually could make some money off the back of their shrewd purchases. Some may, but sadly those days of a great bargain are way behind us. Of course, you may be lucky and find your holy grail piece and wish to sell it. But beware, if the watch looks too good to be true, compared to others like it, there could be a reason.

Don’t be afraid to ask questions, as there is a font of knowledge out there and most in the community are willing to help and answer your questions (don’t buy it yet). It’ll be the knowledge you learn that could stop you from buying a Frankenwatch. They do exist and are more common than you may think. These are watches that are put together, from parts gutted from unrelated watches. Or they could be a watch that has the wrong hands, or dials and may be advertised as a limited edition. Sadly I have first-hand knowledge of this, which I’ll share later.

Once you are happy with your choice of watch and armed with all that information you’ve consumed, you’re ready to start looking for one.

• The best place to start will be a physical shop, bricks and mortar. One that has a vintage section or a specialist, again they’ll be only too pleased to assist you.

More often than not, the watch will also have been serviced (well get on to that later) and come with a warranty. This would normally be the safest option, however, it will also be the most expensive one. The higher price will be for several reasons. The shop has to cover the cost of the watch, servicing, warranty and any overheads, which means you’ll be paying a premium.

• eBay or other auction sites. eBay now offers an “Authenticity Guarantee” for any watch (and fashion items) over a certain price.

For watches, it’s automatically triggered at £1500.00. It’s a free service and the way it works is this. You pay for the watch, the seller sends it to eBay, who authenticates it. eBay then sends it to you with a warranty, then the seller gets paid once you have received it. It’s a simple process and takes much of the stress away from you as a buyer.
Anything under £1500.00 is not covered, however, you do have their normal service. So once you receive the watch and if it’s not as advertised, you should still be able to get a refund through eBay.

• Forums, Facebook Groups, or Community websites.

This option can be the most hazardous, as sales are normally done via a bank transfer, Paypal or a similar payment system. If you pay via a bank transfer, you may not be covered at all, so this can be the riskiest option Paypal do have their payback, don’t pay with the Friends and Family option, as you won’t be covered.

Another part of your research once you’ve found your desired watch, should be the seller. Do not underestimate them, most are genuine, but many are happy to sell a watch that has the wrong parts within, maybe one of the hands are wrong, or the crown is different. This is where your community comes in, share the photos of what you want to buy with others, before you buy it, and ask, does this look right? Use your due diligence and check out the seller thoroughly. Look at their feedback and reviews, try a Google search and see what you can find out. You may be warned off, by some very disgruntled customers who have been burned already.

If in any doubt, ask the seller for a proof photo. This is a picture of the watch on today’s newspaper with a handwritten note, with the seller’s name next to it. You don’t want to buy and pay for a watch that they don’t own, this is a very common tactic.

Don’t be afraid to ask questions, and if you don’t get the responses you want, then keep looking. The right watch will come up, just be patient.

The Auction Rush

Don’t rush into buying a vintage watch, without carrying out all these checks I’ve highlighted. It’s so easy to feel pressured into pulling that trigger. Patience is key here, It’s not uncommon if you’re looking for something specific to wait months or even years for the right one to come along. Collecting is about the long game, as any rush purchased often proves to be regretted later. I’ve done that countless times and bought too many too quickly, as you can get an elated feeling, especially on auction sites, as the last few minutes tick by.

Set yourself a limit too, don’t pay over the odds for a watch. It’s far too easy to get into a bidding war with someone else who’s as keen to buy it as you. My best advice on an auction site is to decide on the absolute upper limit you want to pay. Don’t bid early, just be patient and be ready, as it’s at the last minute that everything happens. Put in your top price, but don’t confirm it yet. Only press the confirmation button when the timer reaches 7 seconds, as once your price is logged, there shouldn’t be enough time for anyone to counter your price.

Why Has My Dial Faded?

Why has the dial got that weird colouring? That will be the “Patina” caused by oxidation over many years. Dials, in particular, are fragile things and the paints and finishes used years ago, may fade or change colour altogether. Dials can change from blue to brown, or grey. The lume used, whether radium or tritium, may have been a brilliant white when applied, over time this can turn a soft orange or pumpkin colour. The bezels fade too, often losing almost all their colour, they’re known as “Ghost” bezels.

All these changes to a watch again will greatly influence the price, more often than not pushing it upwards. As those patinaed dials or ghost bezels, are what some collectors are searching for and will be happy to pay extra.

If you can’t be there in person and physically see the watch, make sure you ask as much about it as you can. Why is the dial so clean, has it been refinished? Why doesn’t the lume on the hands match the indices, has it been relumed? Is the bracelet original? Can you send me a video clip of it being wound and the time changed?

If you get any pushback, walk away, this one is not for you. You can also ask for the serial number and check on the Watch Register to see if it’s been stolen. Serial numbers on most watches can give you many hidden details. A Google search or on your new forum can reveal the age of the watch, as well as where it was manufactured.

Some sellers may still have the original box, papers and even the receipts. But don’t be swayed by this, as it can inflate the price and also may not be original to the watch you are buying. Don’t let this be a deal breaker, but it will add to its provenance.

If you are stuck on where to start, beginning with a renowned brand may help. Brands like Rolex and Omega may have strong credentials, but these will come at a cost. There are hundreds of vintage brands for you to discover, many, sadly no longer around and have closed their doors. But don’t despair, as most of these watches from unknown brands can still be serviced and parts can still be found.

As you can see there is a lot to learn in buying a vintage watch. Apart from the allure of owning such a timepiece, you need to be aware of the hidden costs. You may have followed all of our guide and be ready to buy a vintage watch. Many of these watches will be over 50 years old and may be running perfectly for a while. However, at some stage, you may notice that its timekeeping is not as it once was. The majority of the time, it may just need a service.

This is another potentially expensive caveat you must be aware of. For some of the big brands, service costs can be huge, even using a small independent watchmaker, a service on a smaller brand may cost £200.00 – £300.00. If you are thinking of high-end brands, that could easily rise to well over £1000.00 or more. I only get my watches serviced if there is an issue, as a few minutes here or there each day isn’t a problem, but much more than that, it will need some TLC.

If any problems do arise, ask around your community for a decent watchmaker. Be aware that sending vintage watches directly to the brands may not only cost you a small fortune, but they may have it for several months. You will save both time and money with an independent watchmaker, but make sure when you speak to them, you tell them not to replace anything without your say-so. As they can get a little gung-ho at times and change hands, crown or even dials if they feel the need.

If you get it serviced, ask for any of the parts that were replaced to be sent back with the watch too

I have fallen foul of many of these pitfalls myself, through either lack of patience, ignorance or just being naive. In the early days, I was obsessed with trying to find a vintage Oris diver. Chrono24 was and still is my friend, it has a lot of security and thankfully came to my rescue.

I found a watch and fell for it, and wanted it in my collection. It was one I’d never seen before and managed to get a good deal on it, £560.00. I sent plenty of questions to the seller and was happy with the responses, so had no worries. I paid and the watch was sent. During the time before it arrived, I happily visited my Oris Community proudly sharing images of my new eminent purchase.

It was then that the red flags started to be raised by fellow collectors. “Not seen one like that before” and “Something doesn’t look right” were the responses I was getting. “It’s OK” I said, “apparently this was a limited edition, so very rare”. I had more negative feedback, so I decided to speak to Chrono24 and raise my concerns. I was told that I had 14 days to decide If I wanted to keep it.

The minute it arrived, I took detailed photos, packed it up and sent it to Oris, who offered to check it as a genuine piece. This cost me £56.00 but I was happy to pay this for peace of mind. Within 3 days, I had an email stating that the watch was indeed, not genuine and they listed their reasons. I forwarded this to Chrono24 and they were brilliant. They contacted the seller, with the evidence I had. I was instructed to send the watch back and would not only get a full refund but the return cost and the inspection fee too.

Eventually, the seller had his watch and had my payment and fees refunded. This caused me no end of grief and had I sent the photos to the Oris community prior to buying it, I would have let it pass and saved myself a whole load of grief. This is a prime example, of buying through an official site like Chrono24, has huge benefits.

This guide is not by any means meant to put you off buying your vintage watch, it merely sets out to highlight some of the issues you need to be aware of before pulling the trigger. Another point to mention is patience, you will need plenty of it. Part of collecting watches is the chase, enjoy it and don’t rush it, as it’s all part of the fun. If you miss out on a watch, there will be another come along, you just may have to hold tight until one does.

The wait is worthwhile though, as to own a watch that is hard to find is such a thrill and accomplishment. You will be the envy of many and wearing it will bring you a constant smile. This is something I favour, as the majority of my collection are from the 1960s to 1990s. Watches made back then have a story to tell, and if only they could speak. Collection vintage watches for me, is more about being part of that watch’s journey.

There is no better way to stand out in a crowd, than by wearing a vintage watch. Look for something different, as many modern watches are so commonplace and don’t have the same appeal. Make a personal statement by, going vintage. Be brave and bold, as some beautiful watches are still to be found.

A watch is so much more than a mere accessory. It’s a silent recorder of the movement of time, capturing stories of the past. As custodians of watches, we adopt the role of stewards for these narratives. We own them for just a brief time before they are passed on like batons, to the next owner.

Thank you for taking the time and reading my guide to buying a vintage watch. I hope you found it an invaluable source, it was a pleasure to write and hopefully, may help you through your next purchase.

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