A Real Celebration Of British Horology
Now that the horological hangover has worn off, the lights have dimmed, and Lindley Hall’s doors have creaked shut, it’s time to unpack British Watchmakers Day 2025. Hosted by the Alliance of British Watch and Clockmakers, this was the second annual gathering of the UK’s finest watch brands. Held in Victoria, London, forty-four British brands came together to tempt lucky enthusiasts who managed to snag a golden ticket.
For the Watch Brothers, it was an early start—though apparently not early enough. We arrived at Lindley Hall a solid 40 minutes before the doors opened, feeling pretty smug… until we rounded the corner. The queue was already snaking down the street, proving that watch fans would do anything for a good timepiece. The guy at the very front? He’d been there since 05:30, probably surviving on sheer determination and a pocketful of protein bars. And like many behind him, he had one thing on his mind—bagging a limited edition watch!
Bigger And Better
With 26 brands unveiling special edition pieces, attendees were spoilt for choice—like a horological buffet where everything looked too good to resist. From that impressive lineup, we’ll be highlighting our personal favourites, but before diving into the watches, let’s talk about the event itself.
British Watchmakers Day 2025 was a gathering of the industry’s biggest names—a proper who’s who of the movers and shakers in British horology. Brand owners, influencers, and journalists all rubbed shoulders with enthusiasts, with interviews and recordings taking place throughout the day. If you love watches, this was the place to be.
A huge nod goes to the Alliance of British Watch and Clockmakers for organising another stellar event, with special credit to Alistair Audsley and his wife, Katya, for their relentless efforts in making it as successful as last year, if not better.
The lineup had some fresh faces, but the heavyweights were still out in force—Bremont’s Davide Cerrato, Christopher Ward’s Mike France, and, of course, the master himself, Roger Smith, were all there, happy to chat with anyone who approached.
The moment the doors opened at 10:00, the energy was electric. Within seconds, queues were already forming—none bigger than the one in front of the Studio Underd0g stand. No surprises there. When it comes to British watchmaking, Richard Benc’s playful designs have a habit of stealing the show and the Gimlet certainly had its day.
British Watchmakers Day 2025 was, without question, a long day and by 6.00 pm, Mark and I were definitely flagging. But we had managed to get around and speak to pretty much everyone there. The trio that was About Effing Time were all there individually, representing their own brands. George Bamford had the Bamford team showing off his range of watches. The highlight was the D-300 Ceramic Diver, for me, it was the white option that stood out and at £1800.00 worth every penny.
Andrew McUtchen was there too, with the Time & Tide crew, showing their latest collaboration with @casedintime with a selection of doughnut-inspired watch cases, genius! Adrian Barker was there in force, not just with his straps and merch but with his own branded coffee stand, which had a constant queue of thirsty punters. Andrew Morgan was also there doing what he does best: schmoozing and mixing with anyone who wanted a piece of him.
Here is a selection of our highlight watches from the event, there were so many to choose from. Each and every brand should feel a sense of accomplishment, as a collective, they all worked tirelessly throughout the day with little rest.
Fears X Studio Underd0g – Gimlet
The Gimlet was what those queuing up at Studio Underd0g stand were after. Snaking through the centre of the event, the queue was a constant. With only 200 pieces available. split between both the morning and afternoon time slots, the queue didn’t seem to dwindle. The force was strong with the Gimlet; it’s what so many wanted on the day. The marketing leading up to it was genius, seeing Nichols Bowman-Scargill dressed in Richards’s oversized jumper and trousers whilst Richard tried to pull off a formal suit and jacket, something he just doesn’t do. The result was the marketing worked, almost as well as last year’s Pizza watch, which they are still selling.
The Gimlet is stunning, looks beautiful on the wrist and is for those who like a classic-styled dress watch and a dab of colour. Based on its namesake cocktail, this collaboration between Fears and Studio Underd0g has really shaken things up here today. The sheer amount of interest in this watch is insane, but for those who have had the joy of seeing one up close, it really does live up to its hype.
Isotope – Mercury BWD – Micro Marquetry & Cloisonné
The first, a stunning Union Jack straw marquetry dial, is a true feat of craftsmanship. Designed by Sophie Scott-Lewis, each dial has been meticulously handcrafted in Paris by Bernardo d’Orey’s atelier. The process is as intricate as it sounds—delicate strands of dyed straw are cut, arranged, and carefully glued onto a brass sundial base. Creating an exquisite, textural masterpiece that plays with light in an extraordinary way.
Not to be overshadowed, the second release—the Mercury BWD Cloisonné—brings a whole different level of artistry. Once again designed by Sophie, this enamelled dial is a labour of love. Fine gold wires are delicately soldered onto the base, forming intricate compartments. Each of these is then painstakingly filled with powdered enamel, fired individually to perfection, and repeated for every colour.
The result? A dial that glows with depth and vibrancy, a testament to the painstaking craft of cloisonné enamelling.
If you’re not yet familiar with José Miranda and Isotope, it’s time to crawl out from under that rock. Since 2016, Isotope has been crafting watches that refuse to blend into the crowd, and this year, José has outdone himself. Not with just one statement piece, but two—each limited to just five examples and both pushing the boundaries of watchmaking artistry.
These two pieces prove, yet again, that Isotope isn’t interested in playing it safe. José Miranda and his team continue to explore new frontiers in design and craftsmanship, and the results speak for themselves—bold, beautiful, and unlike anything else out there.
Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour Edwardian Edition
Nicholas Bowman-Scargill has done it again, delivering another standout piece from British Watchmakers Day 2025. This time, it’s the Fears Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour Edwardian Edition, a watch that effortlessly blends heritage charm with contemporary refinement. Crafted from Sterling Silver and featuring a porcelain-white dial, this piece radiates pure sophistication. The polished case is a thing of beauty, and don’t even get me started on that onion crown—because, let’s be honest, I’m a sucker for a good onion crown.
Now, I’ll admit—I’m not usually a dress watch guy. But this one? It’s just so exquisitely finished that resisting its appeal is near impossible. Priced at £5,450.00, it sits at the upper end of the spectrum, but with all 10 pieces selling out in a flash, the demand speaks for itself. Fears has cemented its place as a powerhouse in the world of elegant British watchmaking, and this release only reinforces that reputation.
Paired with a handmade Maple Red Alcantara® strap, this watch exudes an air of quiet luxury, fit for modern royalty. Fears has once again proven its mastery in crafting refined, sophisticated timepieces that stand as a true celebration of British horology.
Bōken – Breacher
The team at the Bōken stand barely had a moment to breathe, and for good reason. With the launch of their new Breacher model. Limited to just three pieces and available only via silent auction, the excitement levels were high. As Bōken’s second watch, following the success of the Odyssey, the Breacher looks set to elevate the brand further, carving out its place in an increasingly crowded market.
Built like a tank, the 39mm Breacher is designed to take on the harshest conditions without breaking a sweat. The time-only version, in particular, stands out as a no-nonsense tool watch. For British Watchmakers Day 2025, Bōken teamed up with Chris Alexander (@thedialartist), who was live-custom-painting a dial right at the event—a mesmerising process to watch. Each of the three auctioned pieces featured a hand-painted castle bursting with colour in the lower half of the dial, making them true works of art.
For those who missed out on the limited editions, fear not—the standard three-hand version, priced at £1,399.00, packs plenty of punch. Judging by the specs, it’s a serious contender for anyone after a rugged, go-anywhere tool watch.
Zero West – S5e & S6e Spitfire Escape
Zero West never disappoints, and they certainly brought their A-game to British Watchmakers Day 2025 with the new S6e Spitfire Escape. This watch turned heads, especially when paired with its striking blue leather bund strap. Alongside it, the S5e paid modern tribute to the iconic Dirty Dozen WW2 watch, blending military heritage with sleek, tactical sophistication. Both models were limited to just 99 pieces.
Getting hands-on with these timepieces was a real treat. The S6e takes inspiration from the precision of an airspeed indicator. Chatting with the team, their passion for these creations was undeniable. Both models feature Zero West’s signature DualConcentricConstruction™ case. An impressive feat of engineering where the top section, including the lugs, seamlessly joins the lower section housing the movement.
With the S6e priced at £4,130 and the S5e at £3,350, we’re hoping to get at least one in for a hands-on review soon!
My Takeaway
With around 1,300 people passing through the doors at Lindley Hall for British Watchmakers Day 2025, one thing was clear—this movement is thriving. Tickets sold out in no time, proving the strong appetite for British watchmaking and the enthusiasts eager to be part of it. Given how the event has grown, it might be time to consider a larger venue. With more space and perhaps a two-day format, even more brands could join in.
Events like this are vital, giving collectors the chance to get hands-on with watches and allowing British watchmaking to flourish. No doubt, Alistair and Katya are already brainstorming ways to expand next year. Whilst they do, a huge thank you is in order—not just to them, but to every brand that showed up and made an impact, from fresh newcomers to long-established names.
There’s never been a better time to dive into watches, especially with so many British brands on our doorstep. And with less than half of the Alliance’s brands present at the show, imagine the potential if given more time and space. Britain should be going head-to-head with the world’s best, and I want to be there to witness it all. In fact, if we all pick up a British watch now and then, who knows how far this movement can go?
And Finally…
A final mention goes to Arken. Kenneth Lam was showing off the Alterum range, which last year I picked as the watch of the 2024 event. So much so that I even crossed his palm with my cash and bagged one only the other month. It’s my everyday wear and continues to get comments. However, although I can’t show you any pictures, the new Speak Easy edition is again my pick for the 2025 event. Under the radar and just for the collectors, the watch will be winging its way onto my wrist in the next few weeks.
It just resonates with everything I love about watches, the community and the brand. Arken is a different breed, delivering watches at an incredible value, with just the amount of that mystery ingredient that makes them so special. Ken knows what we want before we know we want it. That’s either bloody genius, or he’s reading our thoughts.
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