Unlocking Brilliance in Darkness: Exploring the Bell & Ross BR-X5 Green Lum
As a seasoned watch expert, Bell & Ross has consistently prioritized visibility, drawing inspiration from aeronautical instrumentation. Their LUM collection, introduced in 2017, has been a testament to this commitment, exploring luminescence to ensure superior luminosity and maximum readability, day or night. Let’s see what the Bell & Ross BR-X5 Green Lum is all about.
While previous models utilised Super-LumiNova for numerals, indices, hands, and dials, the new Bell & Ross BR-X5 GREEN LUM takes innovation to the next level with LM3D, a groundbreaking composite material. The challenge? Integrating photoluminescent material and high-end design seamlessly into the BR-X5 line.
The quest for optimal readability in various environments, from plane cockpits to diver’s wrists, has been an enduring challenge for watchmaking instruments. Luminescent materials have evolved since the 1930s, with Super-LumiNova emerging as the predominant choice post the shelving of tritium and radium due to radioactivity.
The 2017 – 2023 Lum Line Up
Bell & Ross’s LUM line, initiated in 2017, showcases watches that go beyond mere timekeeping, delving into the realm of luminescence. The series began with the BR 03-92 HOROLUM and BR 03-92 NIGHTLUM, followed by the BR 03-92 FULL LUM, BR 03-92 GREY LUM, BR 03-92 Diver FULL LUM, BR V2-94 FULL LUM, and BR V2-92 FULL LUM.
In 2022, the BR-X5 joined the BR 05 range, marked by aeronautical heritage and the iconic “round within the square” visual signature. This superlative BR-X5, housing the BR-CAL.323 caliber designed by Kenissi, stands out with a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. The multi-component case prioritizes purity, radicality, resistance, and lightness.
The fresh BR-X5 inherits its case design from the BR-05 series. While slightly larger at 41mm compared to the BR-05’s 40mm, it aligns with the BR-05 GMT from 2021 and is smaller than the 42mm BR-05 Chronograph. Retaining the fundamental case shape and visual aesthetics, this continuity is a positive note as the BR-05 series has consistently featured strikingly handsome watches.
Readability Challenges in Watchmaking
Bell & Ross pushes the boundaries with the new BR-X5 GREEN LUM, completing its high-end line. This innovative model introduces LM3D, a composite material illuminating the entire 41mm case spectacularly in the dark. The case, crafted from DLC-coated grade 2 titanium and assembled with LM3D shields, emits a powerful green luminescence.
The dial’s indications – hours, minutes, seconds, date, and power reserve – shine brightly in the dark. With only 500 limited pieces, the BR-X5 GREEN LUM transcends its watchmaking function, positioning itself as a one-of-a-kind conceptual art object on the luminescent planet of innovation.
Movement: Calibre BR-CAL.323
Power Reserve: 70 hours
Dimensions: 41 mm wide x 12.80 mm
Dial: Matt black. Applique indices filled with black varnish. Skeletonised Super-LumiNova®-covered hour and minute hands. Black flange with 60-minute scale with green marking.
Crystal: sapphire with anti-reflective coating.
Strap: black openworked rubber.
Buckle: Folding. Steel with DLC (diamond-like carbon) finish.
Functions: hours, minutes and seconds. Date window at 3 o’clock and power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock.
BR-X5 GREEN LUM £12,000 – Limited edition to 500 pieces
As a watch journalist, (I guess, that’s what I’m trying to be) this Bell & Ross BR-X5 Green Lum has truly caught my eye. A longtime fan of the brand, I must say this new release lives up to the high expectations. In daylight, it exudes a subtle peppermint hue, presenting a clean and sharp appearance beneath the cuff. However, the real magic happens at night when the luminescence comes to life. This is next level lume.
The dial’s layout is refreshingly simplistic, ensuring excellent legibility, a feature I genuinely appreciate. It’s design doesn’t disappoint, maintaining a clear link to the brand’s aviation heritage. The overall look of this BR-X5 feels sharper and more mature, leaving me eagerly anticipating the brand’s future releases. I can’t wait to see what Bell & Ross has in store next!