Watches & Wonders 2025 Top 10

Spending hours glued to a computer screen, sifting through an avalanche of press releases, isn’t exactly how I’d choose to spend April 1st. But with no ticket to Geneva and no desire to brave the crowds—or the step count—it’s probably for the best. My feet wouldn’t survive Palexpo anyway. So, from the comfort of my chair (and with a decent cuppa in hand), I’ve been keeping up with everything Watches & Wonders 2025 has thrown our way. And among the announcements, surprises, and inevitable hype, here are a few highlights that genuinely stood out.

Honestly, I’m not worried about this being the thinnest at 1.85mm. It’s more about what can be achieved by brands and the measures they go to to get that title. At some point, they may have to concede that they can’t go any thinner, but until then, this Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon is utterly breathtaking. It’s more than a feat of engineering capabilities; it’s the desire to make a watch that is equally stunning in looks. This has just that in droves!

This is a work of art from a dedicated team of experts at the top of their game. The distinct Octo Finissimo DNA hasn’t been compromised to achieve this mechanical wonder. Stripped back to almost nothing, the sapphire glass sandwiches the movement components of the BVF900 calibre. COSC Certified, too, and a snip at $678,000.

Unlike Bulgari, Tudor has gone bigger with the Tudor Pelagos Ultra. At 43mm, this may seem a beast, but perhaps it’s not as untamed as you think. How deep is deep enough, well, for Tudor, the Pelagos Ultra is good for 1000 or 3280ft, as it says on the dial. I love both the flush helium escape valve and the light blue flash of colour on the dial.

This is not a desk diver; this is built for those saturation guys who delve at the bottom of murky depths. However, priced at £5,750.00, this will still be very popular with those so-called desk divers, of which I’m one. With both a new bracelet and rubber strap in the box, this is for those of us who need that extra depth. Tudor has listened this year, bringing out a plethora of watches for us to drool over. Watches & Wonders 2025 has been good fro them on the whole.

Some brands go thin, some big, but Vacheron Constantin does the most complicated watch in the world. The Vacheron Constantin Solaria Ultra Grand Complication has 41 complications, that most of you would never have heard of or need. But again, like the Bulgari, they have built this, because they can. On another level of micro-engineering, this watch defies belief.

How they have achieved this is a marvel. The complications across time indications, a tourbillon, perpetual calendar, chronographs, and astronomical indicators. All fitting inside an 18kt white gold 45mm x 14.99mm case. There are complications on both sides of the watch and powering the beast is the Calibre 3655. This is comprised of 1,521 components and has a 72-hour power reserve. The complications include 6 for time measurement, 8 for the Gregorian perpetual calendar, 3 for lunar indication, 14 astronomical indicators, 5 repeating complications, 4 chronograph functions, and a power reserve indicator.

The Czapek Antarctique Tourbillon was built to celebrate their tenth year since their revival as well as 180 years since they started in 1845 by François Czapek. The dials are a thing of beauty, the new pattern Singularité – from the astronomical term singularity, best exemplified by black holes. They had to build a machine, especially for this process, as had not been done before, this exemplifies Czapek’s commitment to evolution.

The watch is deceptively simple, yet exceptionally crafted. The in-house Czapek Caliber 9, provides 72 hours of power reserve, even with a tourbillon. With the idea that the tourbillon, gear train, and barrel should be viewed from the dial side, you can see how this adds to the overall balance and beauty of the watch. At CHF 63,000, the model will be made available in three dial colourways: Secret Alloy, Glacier Blue, and Photon Sphere.

We all know of the Formula 1 and TAG Heuer relationship and how that has helped form the brand into what it is today. Their latest model, the Formula 1 Soloargraph really caught our eye at Watches & Wonders 2025, especially the yellow and black version. The vintage pieces have always been a little on the small side for me, so when they released a 38mm, version, this was just what the driver ordered.

A matte black opaline dial sets the stage for a bold pop of colour, thanks to a vivid yellow flange and a coordinating TH-Polylight bezel. The black DLC-coated steel case provides the robustness this watch needs. The Calibre TH50-00 with just a short light exposure, will allow this to run from day to day, without interruption. Priced at £1,650.00 this is a solid option for a watch that will not only look good but will turn heads.

Breitling has and will always be up there as a brand for Mark and me, as they were our first introduction to “real watches”. The release of the Breitling Top Time Martini Racing sees this as a stand-out piece. Limited to only 750 pieces of each colour, I doubt. I’ll get the opportunity to get hands-on with one.

The reissue of the 1960s watch sees the striking cushion case, squircle subdials, and the unmistakable dashboard dial. Two models capture the thrill of the rally, while a third, created in partnership with Martini Racing is our personal favourite.

With a 38mm case, this is the ideal size for most wrists, and the “squircles” as Breitling likes to refer to them, really stand out as a retro feature. The calibre 01 outputs 70 hours of power reserve, enough for a track day or two.

Some brands just have the right formula, one such brand is IWC, with the Ingenieur Automatic 40 Green Dial. I’ve long been a fan of the Ingenieur and this new colour iteration, with its gold undertones and highlights. With its signature grid dial, this time in a striking green colour. The limited edition piece takes inspiration from the upcoming Apple Original Film, F1. Where Brad Pitt is seen wearing this watch.

Golden hands and gold-coated markers filled with Super-LumiNova® ensure legibility in any light. The signature bezel, fixed with five functional screws, defines the Ingenieur’s look. An integrated bracelet with a butterfly clasp connects via the middle links, offering a secure and comfortable fit. Priced at £11,100.00, this is limited to 1000 pieces. IWC also has a 42mm black ceramic version that Ed Sheeran has been recently seen wearing.

I guess I can’t leave out Rolex, however this year they have had more leaks than Thames Water. No doubt some of these were to keep the hype train running and to create a frenzy as this morning’s predictions came to fruition. I have never really been a fan of Rolex, apart from maybe the Explorer II, but when I was going through the press releases of the new Land Dweller, I thought to myself, maybe Rolex did do something less meh than last year.

I know it’s kind of an underhand compliment, however, there is much to like about the Land Dweller. The honeycomb dial is actually quite nice, which surprised me. As is the overall look. As a sports watch, I could see myself wearing the ice-blue, however, the Platinum case, bezel and bracelet, added to the price tag of £54,000 would cause me some serious damage.

At the higher end of the horological spectrum, and a brand I’d love to explore more closely, sits the impressive Patek Philippe Calatrava 8 Day. It’s powered by the rather elaborately named Calibre 31‑505 8J PS IRM CI J, which may not be the catchiest moniker, but what it delivers is undeniable. With two series-coupled barrels, the movement offers eight days of precise timekeeping, and intriguingly, the power reserve display even accounts for a ninth day as buffer.

The design strikes a balance between tradition and modern elegance. A grained blue dial, paired with sans-serif Arabic numerals and a syringe-style handset, lends it a crisp, contemporary character. At 6 o’clock, a multifunction subdial handles both the day and date, with both displays performing instantaneous jumps at midnight, a subtle technical flex.

NOMOS continues to impress, and at Watches & Wonders 2025, the standout for me was the Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer, particularly the Jungle edition. Drenched in lush green tones reminiscent of tropical foliage, it pops with vibrant orchid pink and water blue accents—a colourful nod to the rainforest. This compact worldtimer offers a full display of all 24 global time zones, along with a 24-hour second time zone indicator, making it as practical as it is eye-catching.

True to NOMOS form, the watch runs on an in-house automatic neomatik calibre, the third in the series, featuring a beautiful gold globe rotor and measuring just 4.8mm thick—a marvel of slim engineering.

The Jungle edition is limited to 175 pieces, but the broader collection features six lively dial colours, each bringing the brand’s playful, design-forward spirit to the wrist. Priced at £3,940.

Day one is finally at its end and those lucky enough to be in Geneva will be making their way to the after-parties. Time to rest their weary bones, and recharge with canapés and a glass of bubbly, while I finish this article. It’s been a busy day, tapping away, with two screens open, my iPad and phone, all beeping away as the press releases drop. But now that over, looking back at what dropped on our laps has been a real treat.

Who knows what Watches & Wonder 2025 will deliver over the next few days, but I doubt there will be much more to come, as most releases come on the first day. I have picked my Top 10, but I could have easily added another 10 or 20 with no qualms. I have to go back to work tomorrow, so will see the rest of the show develop over the next few days. Once the press is out of the way, it’s over to the public days.

I don’t feel I’ve missed out, in fact, I have probably seen more watches than most of the journalists in Geneva. But they would have had way more fun, no questions. One day, I pray it will happen, but until I get the call, enjoy my highlights and let me know your thoughts so far.

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