The Gimlet

With British Watchmakers Day just weeks away, I couldn’t resist getting hold of the latest collaboration from Fears X Studio Underd0g. Named the Gimlet, this standout timepiece perfectly blends the DNA of both brands. Fears, renowned for crafting some of the most classically charming watches in the UK, reflects the refined taste of its founder, Nicholas Bowman-Scargill—a dapper gentleman whose style permeates every design. Equally, Richard Benc of Studio Underd0g has infused his creative vision into the piece.

From a distance, the dial immediately evokes the signature look of the 02 Series, thanks to its unmistakable design cues. The playful addition of vibrant colour offers a nod to the Pink Lem0naid, yet the Gimlet carries a more sophisticated twist that elevates its overall appeal. This fusion of classic British elegance and bold, modern aesthetics creates a watch that truly stands out in a crowded market, and one that on Watchmakers Day will sell like billy-o.

Every detail of the Gimlet exudes personality and innovation, reflecting a shared passion for pushing boundaries. As the celebration of British watchmaking approaches, this collaboration not only signals a fresh direction for both brands but also embodies the spirit of individuality that defines the industry today. I’m thrilled to get hands-on with the Gimlet, and I’m confident it will inspire fellow enthusiasts to embrace their distinctive styles.

This class act has come about to celebrate British Watchmakers Day on 8th March 2025.  Last year saw the inaugural event of the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers, held at Lindley Hall, London. That was a huge success that saw the Alliance put on a superb show; this year will be no exception, as it’s already a sellout.

When two creative minds come together, unexpected magic can unfold. When Richard Benc first launched Studio Underd0g in 2021, one of his earliest supporters was none other than Nicholas Bowman-Scargill. Richard’s fresh and unconventional approach to watchmaking immediately resonated with Nicholas, and their mutual admiration quickly grew into a strong friendship. So, when Richard floated the idea of a collaboration, the foundation was already there. The concept, however, didn’t fully take shape until the release of the 02 Series, with its distinctive dual-layered dial construction—an innovation that provided the perfect canvas for a unique, co-branded timepiece.

While Richard’s expertise lies in injecting bold and playful colors into his designs, the challenge was finding the perfect palette for this special edition. The decision-making process, as it turns out, was anything but conventional. What started as a casual night out in London soon became the stuff of legend—now affectionately known as “Gimlet Night.” As the two friends navigated the city’s cocktail bars, their focus was on one key mission: determining the ideal colorway. However, after one too many drinks and a rough morning-after recovery, inspiration struck. Their drink of choice that evening had been the Gimlet—a classic gin and lime-based cocktail. The vibrant combination of pale green and crisp white felt like the perfect fit, seamlessly capturing the essence of both brands while adding a refreshing twist. And just like that, the Gimlet was born.

Let’s start with the case. Borrowed from the Fears Brunswick, this classic cushion-shaped design has stood the test of time for over a century. Originally introduced in the 1920s with wire lugs, the Brunswick has evolved significantly—especially since the brand’s revival in 2016 by Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, the great-great-great-grandson of its founder. Today, Fears is known for producing some of the finest dress watches in the UK, offering exceptional craftsmanship and timeless elegance.

The Gimlet’s 38mm case is crafted from 316L stainless steel, featuring a refined brushed finish on the case and bezel. The short, highly polished lugs create a striking contrast, adding a sense of depth and detail. A standout element is the finely bead-blasted full onion crown—almost a signature of Fears—offering a tactile, vintage-inspired touch. The typeface and syringe-style handset, also taken from the Brunswick, further cement the watch’s classic aesthetic while maintaining a strong brand identity.

The dial, however, is where the playful spirit of Studio Underd0g truly shines. Borrowing inspiration from their 02 Series “Field Watch,” it features a three-layered sandwich dial. Made up from a fully lumed lime-green gradient base layer. Above this, a 1mm clear sapphire sits, and above that sits the printed sapphire, which holds all the text. This is all bolted to the base from above using two visible screws—an unmistakable Studio Underd0g signature. This multi-layered approach adds depth and intrigue, blending traditional British watchmaking with a bold, contemporary design language.

The result? A timepiece that seamlessly fuses heritage craftsmanship with modern creativity—both brands’ identities coming together in perfect harmony.

The fully lumed dial, a standout feature from Studio Underd0g’s 02 Series, makes a bold statement. When properly charged, it delivers exceptional brightness, ensuring clarity and legibility in low-light conditions. This luminous effect enhances both functionality and aesthetics, reinforcing the playful yet practical nature of the collaboration.

To keep costs more accessible compared to Fears’ usual La Joux-Perret movements, the duo opted for the manually wound Sellita SW210-1. This movement, also used in Studio Underd0g’s 02 Series, operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and boasts a 42-hour power reserve. With an accuracy rating of -7/+7 seconds per day, the SW210-1 is a proven and widely respected movement, trusted by numerous independent watch brands for its reliability and ease of servicing.

Completing the package is a beautifully crafted 20mm dark green calfskin strap from The Strap Tailor. This premium leather strap complements the dial’s vibrant tones perfectly, striking a balance between elegance and playfulness. Featuring quick-release pins for easy changes and a dual-signed buckle, it’s yet another thoughtful detail that enhances the overall experience of the Gimlet.

Can you tell that I absolutely love this watch? On the wrist, it strikes a perfect balance between elegance and playfulness—classy yet fun, refined yet full of personality. Is it worth the £1,000 asking price? Without a doubt. A full-fledged Brunswick from Fears typically starts at £2,500, and while the finishing and movement in this collaboration might not match that level, what you’re getting is something truly special—a limited-edition piece from two of Britain’s finest independent watchmakers.

That said, I’m still on the fence about whether I’ll personally pick one up. Not because there’s anything lacking in the watch itself, but simply because I’ve never been much of a dress watch guy. Maybe my tastes will evolve over time, but one thing’s for sure—whether I grab one or not, these are going to sell out fast. With only 200 pieces available—100 per session—anyone interested will need to move quickly. And here’s a pro tip: if you’re attending British Watchmakers’ Day, make sure to head straight to the Studio Underd0g stand. Don’t mistakenly queue at Fears, or by the time you find the right line, you might just miss your shot!

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