The Rise Of The Underd0g
The British microbrand has quickly ascended from obscurity to global prominence and has captured significant attention and admiration within the industry in recent years. Their recent partnership announcement with the H Moser & Cie x Studio Underd0g, has further solidified their reputation as one of the most talked-about watch brands.
So, kick off your Crocs, slacken your waistband, grab a cuppa and get comfortable as we delve into the phenomenon that is Studio Underd0g.
Since their inception in only 2021, they have risen through the ranks and are now playing with the big boys. Like most start-ups, Richard Benc, at the beginning had many hats, owner, founder, creator, designer, marketing etc, but now has expanded his team to 4, including his intern Magnus Swann (currently in his final year at Sheffield University) and have become the brand to be.
I first encountered Richard in October 2021 when he toured Redbar events with the 01 Series. The excitement in the room was tangible—these were watches, unlike anything we had seen before, bursting with colour and a playful spirit that reflected Richard’s easygoing approach to watchmaking.
01 Series – Chronograph
Their inaugural 01 Series Bi-Compax Chronograph collection in 2021 has the essence of fun and colour intricately woven into their designs and DNA.
These bright colours had never been seen like this before, and with a theme of fruit and flavours, Studio Underd0g had created something special and unique and in an affordable watch well-presented watch. The flavours are, Watermel0n, Desert Sky, Go0fy Panda and Mint Ch0c Chip. All offering exceptional value, whilst keeping that fun element, that the brand is now so well known for.
Of the range, it’s the Watermel0n that’s by far been their biggest success and is now being copied over in the Far East to Richard’s amusement.
Watermel0n
Desert Sky
Go0fy Panda
Mint Ch0c Chip
02 Series – Field
The 02 Series Field Watch was next in line to become the next sensation. Breathing new life into the modest Field Watch, displaying meticulous attention to detail while maintaining a sense of restraint within the realm of design constraints. It effortlessly resonated with a diverse audience, drawing parallels to the iconic Dirty Dozen watches of the past—a modern incarnation that captivated enthusiasts.
Launched in 2023 the 02 Series had exceeded all expectations, with huge global demand, with sales rocketing, a real testament to its widespread appeal. It’s the Pink Lem0nade that has been the clear favourite and outsold all other colour ways, another clear indication that the Underd0g formula was bang on the money.
Pink Lem0nade
Steffany Blue
Full Mo0n
Midnight
Pizza Edition
Pepper0ni
Then on 1st April 2023, the world went mad for the Pizza Edition. Based on the 01 series Chronograph, it was initially announced as an April Fools joke, with the idea coming from Andrew McUtchen. But when the demand soared, it became a Special Edition piece, in both a Pepper0ni and Hawaiian versions.
These were only available hand-delivered, from Richard or Andrew at events they would be at, creating a furore. The frantic demand began and something as bold as a pizza watch gave Studio Underd0g even more acclaim.
At Britsh Watchmakers Day in March 2024, there were unprecedented queues for this watch, hundreds were sold. The queue snaked around at least half the hall, as Richard, Andrew and his team were bombarded with sales. I’ve never seen sights like this before for a British watch, it reminded me of Posh & Becks, in their heyday. Customers trying to grab a selfie with Richard or Andrew in their chef’s hats and the pair, being papped by the press. I thought the watch world was quiet and boring.
Hawaiian
Richard’s Biggest Pitch
However just before Geneva Watch Days 2024 in late August, there were subtle snippets and tasters of what was coming next. All under wraps, with images and videos being shown of something colourful and exciting. Then the bomb dropped a collaboration that no one saw coming.
Studio Underd0g had pulled off an extraordinary feat, propelling them to new heights. A pair of Passion Fruit watches were released from the giant that is H. Moser & Cie and the tiny might of Studio Underd0g. The H Moser & Cie x Studio Underd0g was unveiled to the world and what a response there was.
Richard had first crossed paths with Édouard Meylan (CEO of H. Moser & Cie) over coffee in London, in Spring 2023, thanks to an introduction from Andrew Morgan (Mr Matchmaker). Naturally, as watch enthusiasts do, they kicked things off by swapping watches—Edouard’s sleek Streamliner for Richard’s vibrant Watermel0n. Right away, it was clear they shared the same deep-rooted passion for timepieces.
As the conversation wrapped up, Edouard casually floated an idea he’d been mulling over for some time: a pair of watches at vastly different price points, sold as a set. Probably the most important meeting of Richards’s career, all he wanted was to leave a positive impression on Édourard, but left with way more than that.
What An Opportunity
Since 2016, Édouard had wanted to do a pair of watches as a collaboration, not with another big hitter, but with a small brand. They wanted to disturb and disrupt the industry and to have a pair of watches, that’s not all about cost, it’s about the craftsmanship and shared passion. But this time, different ends of the brand spectrum, as this was their second collaboration, their first with MB&F, with the LM101 MB&F x H. Moser. But as the right partner had not come around, had shelved the idea.
Édouard had admired Studio Underd0g from afar and thought of them as the British Moser. Which was quite an acclamation for the brand, the partnership flourished and the creative fuel had been ignited.
It’s Not About The Price Tag
Richard went away not only with a huge spring in his step but with a huge collaboration opportunity. Intrigued, Richard couldn’t wait to get back to the office and get started. With his new intern, Magnus Swann by his side, he and Richard immediately dove into brainstorming mode.
Magnus, with his incredible sketching abilities, quickly outshone Richard’s initial scribbled concept. Richard had jotted down a rough outline on a scrap of paper—now a framed keepsake in our Brighton office—but it was Magnus who brought the idea to life. Together, they came up with the idea of Passion Fruit and had not only designed their model but the Moser one too. Like the Moser, they had dropped the branding from the dial and kept to a similar design trait.
The result was nothing short of amazing, Richard now had his 03 Monopusher case, paired with this new killer Coarse Dégradé amber and royal purple multilayered dial. By blending sophistication with vibrant energy, this watch effortlessly captures the essence of the brand’s motto: ‘Never count out the underdog.’
Within days, the concept was polished and ready. Soon after, Richard was on a plane to Zurich, ready to present it to Edouard and his team! Once Moser had seen the design, they knew they had to up their game and create a stunning enamel dial, which they did with bells on.
Creating a purple lacquered sunburst dial and a Maracuja fumé Grand Feu enamel dial on an 18-carat yellow gold base with a hammered texture. The Moser dial has idiosyncratic symmetry between the shapes within it. The power reserve sits in a triangle at 9, the date in a square at 3 and running seconds in a circle at 6, adding to the cohesion of the design. So the H Moser & Cie x Studio Underd0g was born.
Sketches Presented to Moser
Sketches By Magnus Swann
A Shared Passion For Beautiful Watchmaking
Now the Passion Fruit collaboration is out in the open, this paves the way for Richards’s new 03 Series Monopusher. Using the same case and movement that was in the collab, we now await to see what Studio Underd0g has up its sleeves. More exciting colours, flavours and mouthwatering appeal, I have no doubt. With this new 03 Series, featuring the Sellita SW510, I expect prices again to jump to a sub £2k price point, which will see them compete with a different market.
As the brand evolves, building on the quality and excitement that they bring, I eagerly await this new collection, but something tells me, It won’t be waiting too long now.
Despite being a small entity, Studio Underd0g has undergone remarkable growth, quadrupling its team to a total of five members this year. The addition of the enthusiastic intern, Magnus (now starting his final year at university), under Richard’s mentorship, signifies a promising future. This expansion is anticipated to alleviate some of the pressures on Richard, fostering an environment where creativity can flourish and more magic can happen. As the brand continues to amass widespread admiration, the trajectory for Richard and his team appears to hold nothing but greatness.
For me, this has to be the collaboration of 2024, the H Moser & Cie x Studio Underd0g not only highlight Studio Underd0g as a brand, but also highlights the whole of British Watchmaking.
For More Information On Studio Underd0g – Click HERE
For More Information On H. Moser & Cie. – Click HERE
For More Articles and Reviews, Click HERE
You might also like
Leave A Reply