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Does Bell & Ross Have the Winning Formula?
Bell & Ross’s latest release, the BR-05 Artline Steel & Gold, seems to have struck the perfect balance in design. This bi-metal case offers just the right mix of elements to aesthetically tick all the boxes. Elevating their signature aviation style, the BR-05 Artline Steel & Gold combines a robust stainless steel and 18kt rose gold case and bracelet. With a warm brown sunray dial, giving the watch a distinctive “je ne sais quoi” that other models often miss.
Bell & Ross continues to produce stunning timepieces. The timing of the BR 05 Artline Steel & Gold’s release couldn’t be more perfect for the summer season. This watch is not only a visual delight but also a testament to the brand’s ability to innovate and refine their designs continually. With its blend of strength and elegance, the BR-05 Artline Steel & Gold exemplifies the brand’s knack for creating watches that stand out in any collection.
Photo Credit – Bell & Ross
The Artline Range
Launched in 2022, the Artline range from Bell & Ross introduces a striking design through its BR 05 urban collection. Deeply inspired by the Art Deco movement of the 1930s interwar period. The name “Artline” signifies the incorporation of artistic elements into its design. Bruno Belamich, the Creative Director and co-founder of Bell & Ross, explains that the collection immediately evokes the American Streamline style, which emerged in the 1930s.
This movement epitomises the seamless fusion of form, materials, and technical expertise, blending industrial design with aerodynamic features. Streamline design represents the rise of functionalist aesthetics and marks the advent of a new profession: the designer. Unlike mere engineers or draftsmen, these designers craft innovative lines and colour schemes that infuse industrial products with originality and beauty.
Pioneers of this movement, such as Raymond Loewy, revolutionised everyday objects. By adopting the avant-garde lines of contemporary trains, aircraft, and automobiles. With the Artline series, Bell & Ross honours these visionary designers. Celebrating the legacy of industrial elegance and the spirit of innovation.
Acclaimed during the 1970s and 80s, particularly in the United States. The gold and steel combination imbues timepieces with a rare and precious elegance, blending refinement with power.
The Perfect Blend
As today’s generation revisits the bold and creative spirit of that era. The marriage of gold and steel is experiencing a strong revival in contemporary watchmaking. Bell & Ross captures this resurgence uniquely with the new BR 05 Artline Steel & Gold. This watch is neither nostalgic nor a mere homage to neo-vintage aesthetics; instead, it stands as a contemporary urban timepiece that seamlessly integrates strength with sophistication.
In the words of Bruno Belamich, Creative Director at Bell & Ross, “With the Artline, we aimed to offer a watch that is both adorned and elegant. By decorating its large surfaces, including the case and central links, we reveal the potential of the BR 05 through the lens of refinement, preciousness, and jewellery.” Moreover, the combination of gold and steel provides a significant advantage: it makes a luxurious watch with 18-carat rose gold components more accessible. This strategic blend showcases Bell & Ross’s commitment to contemporary elegance. It also democratises the appeal of high-end materials for modern watch enthusiasts.
Photo Credit – Bell & Ross
Photo Credit – Bell & Ross
The Exquisite Dial
The new BR 05 Artline Steel & Gold from Bell & Ross immediately stands out to fine watchmaking connoisseurs with its striking gold elements. Its integrated bracelet’s bezel and central links are adorned with a fluted design, a detail cherished in high-end watchmaking and goldsmithing. This intricate finish enhances the watch’s luxurious appeal and draws inspiration from modern architecture, infusing the piece with a unique and singular character.
The BR 05 Artline distinguishes itself from the rest of the BR 05 collection while still honouring the fundamental traits of its lineage. The fluted design, unusual in technical watchmaking, evokes a sense of modernity and sophistication. For aviation enthusiasts, it holds a nostalgic charm, reminiscent of the aluminium fuselages of 1940s cruise planes, celebrated for their robust structures.
Bruno Belamich, Creative Director at Bell & Ross, confirms that the inspiration for this design was deeply rooted in the world of air travel. This connection to aviation, a recurring theme in Bell & Ross’s creations, gives the BR 05 Artline a resonant and emotional depth. By incorporating fluting, the watch not only captures the spirit of vintage aircraft but also adds a valuable and refined dimension to the brand’s urban collection.
Beneath its sophisticated exterior, the BR 05 Artline Steel & Gold embodies a blend of strength and elegance, seamlessly integrating these attributes into a cohesive and compelling design. This watch is a testament to Bell & Ross’s ability to innovate while paying homage to their aviation heritage, making it a standout piece in their collection.
Photo Credit – Bell & Ross
Exploring the Distinctive Design
Photo Credit – Bell & Ross
The large numerals typical of Bell & Ross’s time indicators give way to baton indices coated with luminescent material, just like the hour and minute hands. For this highly exclusive limited series of 99 pieces, the seconds hand is made of gold to complement the new exclusive colour of the dial. A bright sunlit brown that requires a specific manufacturing technique.
To achieve the desired effect, the metal plate from which the dial is cut must be coated with a tinted brown varnish. This dial adorns a precise and high-performing Swiss self-winding movement. The BR- CAL.321-1 calibre, is equipped with a reassuring power reserve of 54 hours. A sapphire case back on this 40mm watch, waterproof to 100 metres, reveals the finishes and the full 360° oscillating weight.
Abounding in symbolism, the new BR 05 Artline Steel & Gold embraces multiple and complementary references, blending architectural rigour, versatile urban style, modernist industrial aesthetics, and aeronautical evocations. A statement of contemporary elegance.
My Thoughts
From the outset, the BR 05 Artline Steel & Gold stands as a stellar release from Bell & Ross. Demonstrating the brand’s knack for crafting designs and colourways that resonate with a broad audience. This latest model, with its bi-metal concept, taps into a resurgence of two-tone watch aesthetics, blending stainless steel and 18kt rose gold with seamless elegance. Given its limited edition status, with only 99 pieces available, it’s clear that this timepiece is destined to be highly sought after.
The BR 05 Artline is particularly compelling for those who appreciate the fusion of contemporary urban style with classic design elements. The watch’s square case, adorned with the striking fluted bezel and bracelet links, presents a distinctive look that sets it apart in the current market. The warm brown sunray dial adds a layer of sophistication, making this model not just a watch, but a statement of refined taste.
Reflecting on personal experience, owning a Bell & Ross from years ago instils a certain nostalgia and appreciation for the brand’s evolution. The BR 05 might just be the perfect piece to fill a gap in a collection, particularly for those missing the unique presence of a square-cased watch. With its modern reinterpretation of classic elements, the BR 05 Artline Steel & Gold is certainly a watch that could tempt even the most discerning collectors to scratch that itch.
Specifications
- Movement: calibre BR-CAL.321-1. Automatic mechanical. 54-hour power reserve.
- Functions: hours, minutes, seconds and date.
- Case: 40 mm wide. Satin-finished and polished steel and 18 ct rose gold with striated bezel.
- Crown: Screw-down, Crown guard. Sapphire case-back with 360° oscillating weight.
- Dial: Brown sunray. Applique indices.
- Hands: Skeletonised hour and minute.
- Crystal: sapphire with anti-reflective coating.
- Water-resistance: 100 metres.
- Strap: two-colour satin-finished and polished steel and 18 ct rose gold with striated links.
- Buckle: Folding. Satin-finished and polished steel.
- Limited Edition: 99 pieces.
- Price: £11,100.00
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